PARC NATIONAL DU BIC
The birds are singing, the wind carries salt, and the fog drifts slowly across the sky. A peaceful image that soothes my mind more than anything else right now. It was the first morning there when we woke up to this quiet, wide, wild, and picturesque land.
We were at Bic by the St Lawrence River, just before it meets the ocean.
SEAWEED AND SHELLS
We sat by the rocky shore on a day when our only plans were to watch the seals and bike to one of Bic’s many bays. I had no time to research what this landscape offers since it was a last-minute plan. But no research was necessary when you can just simply appreciate walking by the water, listening to the sounds of rocks shifting underfoot, and pausing the rush of daily life. I was mesmerized by this mystic view that I have never seen similar
Seaweed caught my attention. I hesitated before running my fingers over its slimy surface. A sudden urge struck—I wanted to draw it, pick it, crush it, make ink from it. At that moment, I felt the familiar pang of time slipping too quickly, the feeling that I wouldn’t be able to do all that I wanted here or in life. I pulled out my sketchbook and started drawing. As I sketched, I came across a uniquely shaped rock entangled with seaweed. It seemed frozen in time, yet still carried the shape of waves in its form—a symbol of both stillness and movement, waiting for the next tide to arrive.
SEAL WATCHING
The tide crept in slowly, something I only noticed each time I lifted my head from my sketchbook. I grabbed the binoculars and scanned the water for seals. Time felt suspended, though the morning was still young. We counted the seals lounging on the rocks, watching as they playfully nudged each other into the water. Their silver-coloured skin glistened in the sun.
CYCLING
Bringing our bikes was one of the best decisions we made. While the park offers rentals, having our own allowed us to freely explore the peninsula, weaving through the bays, woods, and remnants of first settlers’ homes.
TRAILS & BOTANICALS
One of the simplest yet most profound pleasures of the trip was watching the sunrise and sunset—something I rarely get the chance to do in my daily life in Toronto. Bic’s trails led us to entirely different worlds. One took us through pink wild roses to the shore. Another ended at a quiet bench overlooking the bay. A third led us deep into the woods, opening up to a vast, bright sandy beach.
I found myself observing plants, mushrooms, and lichens as we walked, hoping to spot Quebec’s provincial flower, the delicate iris. But this salty wilderness held other secrets—I never found the iris, but what I did see felt just as rare.
WILDLIFE
Wandering along the shore, we stumbled upon a fox gnawing on something. As we stepped closer, we realized it was a large piece of seal skin. We watched as the fox carefully stashed it away—only to be startled by an eagle swooping down, sending the fox darting off into the distance. Left alone in the rocky bay, we listened to the haunting calls of loons echo across the water, as the sun dipped below the horizon.
CAMPING SITE
The campground was busy, yet somehow, we rarely encountered anyone on the shores or hills. The days varied—some were rainy, some warm enough to consider swimming, others carried strong winds. Evenings were spent by the fire, cooking, sipping drinks, and simply being present.
One day, we noticed a bird perched in a tree at our campsite, sitting protectively over her chicks. We watched as another bird swooped in with food, feeding its family in the soft evening light. The animals here—foxes, rabbits, deer—moved freely and comfortably, even near our camp.
FORAGING & WALKING ON THE ROCKS
On our final day, we visited Anse à Capelans, wandering along the rocks of the peninsula. Distracted by wild blueberries and the sheer beauty of the landscape, we unknowingly walked to the very end of the peninsula. It was the perfect way to say goodbye to Bic—a journey that began by the water and led us back to the trails.
LOCAL FOOD
After days of campfire meals, we decided to indulge in local flavors. Being in the land of poutine and so close to the ocean, we grabbed takeout from a small restaurant, picnicked by the shore, and sipped on Quebec’s famous ice cider.
One morning, we woke early and drove to Rimouski, hoping to spot birds near the lighthouse. Though we didn’t find what we were looking for, the detour led us to charming local shops. A chocolaterie offered flavors crafted in collaboration with nearby artisans. Next, we visited a cheese shop, picking up a few varieties made in Quebec, followed by a stop at a smoked meat shop. That night, a cheese board became our feast—an unexpected yet perfect ending to the trip.
Being close to nature, immersing myself in a new landscape, and simply sitting by the water, letting time slow down—I find myself craving this way of living again.
